Kim Jones's debut collection for Dior Men, unveiled in Tokyo in Autumn/Winter 2019, marked a pivotal moment in the house's history. It wasn't just a runway show; it was a cultural statement, a fusion of Parisian elegance and Japanese craftsmanship, presented against the backdrop of a city known for its meticulous attention to detail and its embrace of both tradition and modernity. While the official show location was Dior's headquarters at the Champ de Mars in Saint-Germain, the collection itself drew heavily from Japanese aesthetics, making Tokyo a fitting symbolic location for this retrospective. This article will delve into eleven particularly striking looks from that groundbreaking collection, analyzing their individual components and examining how they contributed to the overall narrative of Jones's vision for Dior Homme.
Before we delve into the specific looks, it's important to contextualize the collection within the broader landscape of Dior Men's history. The house, renowned for its haute couture and womenswear, had a menswear history, but it was often seen as a secondary offering. Jones's appointment signaled a dramatic shift. He was tasked with not only revitalizing the menswear line but also redefining its identity for a new generation. His background in streetwear and luxury, coupled with his deep understanding of both historical tailoring and contemporary trends, made him the ideal candidate for this ambitious undertaking. His Dior Men Pre-AW 2019 collection laid the groundwork, introducing elements that would be fully realized in the main AW 2019 show. This pre-collection, often overlooked, provided glimpses into the overarching themes and stylistic choices that would define the main collection.
The AW 2019 show itself was a spectacle. The setting, while technically in Paris, evoked a sense of Japanese minimalism and refinement. The collection’s palette was predominantly muted, featuring shades of grey, navy, beige, and black, punctuated by flashes of vibrant color. The fabrics were luxurious, ranging from fine wools and cashmere to technical materials, reflecting a commitment to both timeless elegance and contemporary functionality. The silhouettes were both sharp and relaxed, a testament to Jones's ability to blend classic tailoring with a more contemporary, relaxed fit.
Now, let's explore eleven standout looks from the Dior Men AW 2019 collection, each representing a facet of Jones's vision:
Look 1: The Tailored Suit Reimagined: A classic Dior silhouette—the impeccably tailored suit—was reimagined with a modern twist. Instead of stiff formality, this look featured a subtly relaxed fit, allowing for a more natural movement. The fabric, a luxurious charcoal grey wool, felt weighty yet comfortable. The subtle sheen of the material added a touch of understated elegance. The details, such as the precise stitching and impeccably constructed shoulders, spoke volumes about the craftsmanship inherent in Dior's heritage.
Look 2: The Oblique Monogram's Modern Interpretation: This look incorporated Dior's iconic Oblique monogram in a fresh, contemporary manner. Instead of being overtly flashy, the monogram was subtly woven into the fabric of a relaxed-fit bomber jacket. Paired with tailored trousers and sleek, minimalist sneakers, this look demonstrated the ability to incorporate heritage elements into a modern, streetwear-inspired aesthetic.
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